The essential oils are listed below under their common name and in alphabetical order.
The essential oils are listed below under their common name and in alphabetical order.
Name : Basil ( Sweet Basil or Exotic Basil )
Method : Steam distillation
Note Classification : Top
Scent : Sweet, herbaceous. Slight camphor
Colour : Yellow or pale-green
Species : Ocimum basilicum. Family Lamiaceae ( Labiatae )
Botanically classified as identical to French basil ( common basil )
which is much less toxic
Extracted From : Flowering tops and leaves
Region : Reunion, France, Cyprus, Seychelles, Comoro
Islands
By-products : -
Historical : . In the Far East, used in Ayurvedic medicine as
tulsi. Native to India and treated as a sacred herb where it
was believed to protect against evil. In Greece it became a symbol of
hostility and insanity ! It reached Europe in the 16th century and
was used in cooking and medicine. The oil was even used to scent
snuff. In the 17th century, herbalist Jacques Tournefourt thought
smelling basil would cause scorpions to breed in the brain - giving
it a bit of a negative image. Has been used as an antidote to insect
and snake bites.
Of Interest :Around 150 varieties of basil in the world. Used
extensively in food products.
Aromatherapy Properties : Upset stomachs, clarifying,
stimulating, uplifting, aids concentration, skin abrasions. Thought
to be a heart tonic.
Blends Well With : bergamot, geranium, hyssop
Chemical Analysis : methyl chavicol 70-88%, linalol, cineol,
camphor, eugenol, limonene, citronellol
French basil has 24% methyl chavicol and is less toxic
Safety Data : Moderately toxic - possible skin irritant and
carcinogen. Avoid if pregnant
Name : Benzoin
Method : Directly from tree resin
Note Classification : Base
Scent : Warm, sweet, balsamic, slight vanilla, almond
Colour : Reddish-brown, orange-brown, greyish-brown
Species : Styrax Benzoin, Family Styracaceae ( Styrax ). 2
main varieties...
Sumatra benzoin ( S. paralleloneurus )
Siam benzoin ( S. tonkinensis )
Extracted From : Directly from tree
Region : Sumatra, Java, Malaysia, LAos, Vietnam, Cambodia,
China, Thailand
By-products : Friars Balsam is a compound tincture of benzoin
and is still used for respiratory complaints
Historical : Used in the East for medicine and incense.
Of Interest : Thick, viscous oil at room temperature. Benzoin
is extracted from a large tropical tree up to 20m high.
Aromatherapy Properties : Excellent for respiratory problems.
Soothing on nervous systems. Cuts and chapped skin.
Blends Well With : Citrus oils
Chemical Analysis :
Sumatra benzoin : coniferyl cinnamate, sumaresinolic acid, benzoic
acid, cinnamic acid, styrene, vanillin, benzaldehyde
Siam benzoin : coniferyl benzoate 65-75% + benzoic acid, vanillin,
siaresinolic acid, cinnamyl benzoate
Safety Data : Non-toxic but occasionally sensitizing. Possible
contact dermatitis
Name : Bergamot
Method : Expression
Note Classification : Top
Scent : Fruity, tangy, zesty
Colour : Light greenish-yellow
Species : Citrus bergamia. Family Rutaceae
Extracted From : Peel of nearly ripe fruit
Region : Asia, Italy, Ivory Coast
By-products : An oil is also produced by vacuum distillation
or solvent extraction. This is free of terpenes.
Historical : The oil was first sold in the city of Bergamot in
Lombardy, Italy. Historically the oil has been used for fever and
worms.
Of Interest :Used in eau-de-cologne and Earl Grey tea. Used
extensively as a fragrance.
Aromatherapy Properties : Used especially for mouth, skin,
respiratory and urinary tract infections.
Blends Well With : lavender, neroli, jasmine, cypress,
geranium, lemon, chamomile, juniper
Chemical Analysis : linalyl acetate 30-60%, linalol 11-22% +
alcohols, sesquiterpenes, terpenes, alkanes, furocoumarins (
bergapten 0.3-0.39% )
Safety Data : The chemical bergapten is phototoxic and cause
skin problems in sunlight.
Name : Black Pepper
Method : Steam distillation
Note Classification : Medium
Scent : Warm, woody, spicy, peppery
Colour : Colourless or pale olive
Species : Piper nigrum. Family Piperaceae
Extracted From : Black peppercorns ( dried aand crushed ).
Peppercorns grow on a woody vine and are the mature but unripe (
picked ) berries which change colour from red to black in the
sun.
Region : India, Indonesia, Malaysia ( Singapore ), China,
Madagascar, Comorro Islands
By-products : An oleoresin is also produced by solvent
extraction for flavouring purposes
Historical : The use of black and white peppers goes back 4000
years in the East. The Chinese used white pepper to treat malaria,
cholera, dysentery, diarrhea and stomach complaints. In Greece it was
used for fever and stomach problems. Peppergrains were sometimes
swallowed whole as a general body tonic.
Of Interest :Used as a rubefacient ( reddens the skin ).
Aromatherapy Properties : Well known for muscle treatments,
poor circulation, arthritis and rheumatism, sprains, stiffness. Also
colds, flu, diarrhea, flatulence, nausea, catarrh, coughs.
Blends Well With : frankincense, sandalwood, lavender,
rosemary, marjoram and florals
Chemical Analysis : Monoterpenes ( thujene, pinene, camphene,
sabinene, carene, myrcene, limonene, phellandrene ) 70-80%,
sesquiterpenes 20-30%, oxygenated compounds
Safety Data : Non-toxic but irritant in high concentration -
always dilute. Not compatible with homeopathic treatment
Name : Camphor
Method : Steam distillation and then processed into 3
fractions - white, brown and yellow. White camphor is the only one
used in aromatherapy - the others are highly toxic.
Note Classification : Middle
Scent : Sharp, camphoraceous, nose-clearing,
menthol
Colour :
White : colourless or pale-yellow ( lowest b.p. )
Brown : brownish
Yellow : yellowish or blue-green ( highest b.p. )
Species : Cinnamomum camphora. Family Lauraceae
Not to be confused with Borneo camphor ( borneol ) which is of a
different botanical origin
Extracted From : Wood, root stumps, branches
Region : China, Japan, Taiwan, Sri Lanka, California, India,
Egypt, Madagascar, Southern Europe
By-products : Crude camphor is a white crystalline substance
found in the wood of mature trees ( 50 years old )
Historical : Traditionally used to fight off infectious
diseases - people used to wear lumps of camphor around the neck.
Of Interest :White camphor is mostly used in the production of
celluloid and as a solvent in the paint and lacquer industry. Brown
camphor is also used as a raw material for the production of safrol
and cineol.
Aromatherapy Properties : Inhalant, nervous tension, bruises,
burns, spots, ulcers, wounds, muscular aches, colds, fever, flu. Good
insect repellent, esp. moths.
Blends Well With : frankincense
Chemical Analysis :
White : cineol, pinene, terpineol, menthol, thymol
Brown : safrol 80%, terpineol...
Yellow : safrol, sesquiterpenes, sesquiterpene alcohols
safrol is highly toxic
Safety Data : White camphor is relatively non-toxic but do not
use in large doses. Brown camphor and yellow camphor are toxic and
carcinogenic. Not to be used with homeopathic treatment.
Name : Cedarwood
Method : Steam distillation
Note Classification : Base
Scent : Sweet pencil-wood scent
Colour : Pale yellow or orange
Species : The main ones are...
Juniperus virginiana ( Virginian )
Juniperus ashei ( Texas ). This is felled only for essential oil.
Cedrus atlantica ( Atlas ). This is the least toxic of the oils.
Extracted From : Wood
Region : Atlas mountains of Algeria, Morocco, USA ( Texas,
Rocky Mountains ), Mexico
By-products : -
Historical : The ancient Egyptians used oil from the Lebanese
cedar for embalming, cosmetics and perfumery. The wood oil was known
to repel ants, moths and other insects.
Of Interest :The oil was one of the ingredients of
mithridat - a renowned poison antidote. It is often used in
incense. Used in cosmetics and soaps. Men's fragrances. Cedarwood is
often used for doors, being a strong, protective wood.
Aromatherapy Properties : Good for skin-care and respiratory
system ( eg. catarrh ). Can be used to treat nervous and
stress-related conditions. Good for arthritis and rheumatism.
Blends Well With : sandalwood, rose, juniper, cypress,
vetiver, patchouli, benzoin, citrus
Chemical Analysis : cedrene 80%, cedrol 3-14%, cedrenol
Safety Data : May cause local irritation in some. Always
dilute. Avoid if pregnant.
Name : Chamomile ( Roman and German )
There is also Moroccan Chamomile or 'Ormenis oil' but this is very
different chemically to German and Roman.
Method : Steam distillation
Note Classification : Middle
Scent : Sweet, fruity, herbaceous
Colour :
Roman : pale blue going brown-yellow with age
German : inky-blue, viscous
Species :
Roman : Chamaemelum nobile or Anthemis nobilis. Family asteraceae (
compositae )
Also known as English Chamomile, Garden Chamomile or Sweet
Chamomile.
German : Matricaria recutica. Family asterceae ( compositae )
Also known as Blue Chamomile or Hungarian Chamomile.
Extracted From : Flower heads. The plants have small
daisy-like flowers and bright green feathery leaves which give off an
apple-like scent when crushed.
Region : Europe ( England - Long Melford, Belgium, Hungary,
Italy, France ), North America
By-products : -
Historical : Chamomile has been used in Europe for over 2000
years. One of the Saxon's nine sacred herbs called 'maythen'. In
1656, John Parkinson wrote : 'Camomill is put to divers and sundry
uses, both for pleasure and profit, both for the sick and the sound,
in bathing to comfort and strengthen the sound and to ease pains in
the diseased'.
Egyptian priests dedicated the plant to Ra, their sun god. India's
Ayurvedic physicians used it for digestive upsets, cramps and
fever.
Of Interest :Extensively used in cosmetics, shampoos, soaps,
detergents and perfumes. Also a flavour ingredient in food and
beverages.
Aromatherapy Properties : Excellent for skin care - allergies,
eczema, insect bites, wounds. Muscular pain, neuralgia, rheumatism,
sprains and burns. Headaches, insomnia, migraine, stress - well known
for calming effect on nervous system.
Blends Well With : bergamot, clary sage, oakmoss, jasmine,
neroli, rose, geranium, lavender
Chemical Analysis :
Roman : esters of angelic and tiglic acids 85%, pinene, farnesol,
nerolidol, chamazulene, pinacarvone, cineol
German : chamazulene, farnesene, bisabolol oxide, enyndicycloether.
Better anti-inflammatory properties because of the higher percentage
of azulene. Azulene is not present in the flower but forms as a
result of the steam distillation.
Safety Data : Very low toxicity but may trigger dermatitis in
some people
Name : Cinnamon
Method : Steam distillation
Note Classification : Base
Scent : Rich, warm, sweet and spicy
Colour : Yellow brown
Species : Cinnamomum zeylanicum. Family Lauraceae
Extracted From : Leaves and twigs or bark The tree is an
evergreen which grows to 15m in height.
Region : Sri Lanka, Malaysia, Madagascar, India, Burma,
Jamaica, Africa
By-products : -
Historical : Cinnamon has long been traded as a valuable
spice. In Eastern medicine it is used to treat flu, digestive and
menstrual problems as well as a general stimulant.
Of Interest : The name comes from the Malay word 'kayu manis'
meaning sweet wood. The Queen of Sheba gave cinnamon to King Solomon.
Listed in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia as a specific for
flatulent colic and dyspepsia with nausea. Cinnamon oil has
widespread use in the food and fragrance industry - e.g. toothpaste
flavouring.
Aromatherapy Properties : Circulation, rheumatism, digestion,
spasms, colds, flu. Some use in stress relief. Makes a very warming
massage blend - good for rheumatism
Blends Well With : orange, ylang ylang, benzoin. 'Orange and
cinnamon' is a classic burner blend.
Chemical Analysis :
Leaf : eugenol 80-96%, eugenol acetate, cinnamaldehyde 3%, benzyl
benzoate, linalol, safrol
Bark : cinnamaldehyde 40-50%, eugenol 4-10%, benzaldehyde,
cuminaldehyde, pinene, cineol, phellandrene, furfurol, cymene,
linalol
Safety Data : Caution ! Bark oil is a dermal toxin and is not
recommended for home use. Leaf oil is relatively non-toxic but never
use undiluted. Avoid if pregnant.
Name : Clary Sage
Method : Steam distillation
Note Classification : Top
Scent : Sweet herbaceous
Colour : Colourless or pale yellowy-green
Species : Salvia sclarea. Family Lamiaceae ( Labiatae )
Extracted From : Flowering tops and leaves
Region : Native to Suthern Europe. Cultivated in Mediterranean
region, Russsia ( Syria ), USA, UK, Morocco.
By-products : A concrete and absolute are also produced by
solvent extraction.
Historical : The word clary comes from 'clear-eye' for
a plant from which the seeds were used to heal eye problems and was
highly esteemed in the Middle Ages. In Germany it is used in the
production of some wines and vermouths and is known as Muscatel
sage.
Of Interest :A key ingredient of eau de cologne and lavender
toilet water. Not to be confused with the common sage ( Salvia
officinalis ) or the 'Eyebright' herb ( Euphrasia officinalis ).
Aromatherapy Properties : Skin care and stress-related
conditions including high blood pressure, depression and anxiety.
Calms fevers. Good for female system. Good for throat and respiratory
infections.
Blends Well With : juniper, lavender, geranium, sandalwood,
cedarwood, pine, jasmine, frankincense, bergamot, citrus
Chemical Analysis : linalyl acetate 75%, linalol, pinene,
myrcene, phellandrene
Safety Data : Non-toxic but avoid if pregnant. Avoid drinking
alcohol if undergoing treatment ( narcotic effect ). Research being
done on epilepsy
Name : Cypress
Method : Steam distillation
Note Classification : Middle / Base
Scent : Pine, grass, wood, sweet
Colour : Pale yellow or greenish olive
Species : Cupressus sempervirens ( coniferae ). Family
cupressaceae
Also Cupressus lusitanica ( considered inferior )
Extracted From : Needles and twigs ( sometimes from cones
)
Region : Mediterranean, France, Italy, Corsica, Sardinia,
Sicily, Spain, Portugal, North Africa, Britain, Balkans, Morocco
By-products : A concrete and absolute are also produced in
small quantities
Historical : According to Greek legend, the cypress was formed
from the body of a hunter called Cyparissus who killed one of
Apollo's stags by accident and was subsequently overcome with grief.
It has long represented grief, death and the underworld - cypress
trees are often found in or near cemetries. Used as a medicine and
incense by ancient civilisations. Well known for its effect on the
urinary system and has been used where ever there is a big loss in
body fluid eg. diarrhea, heavy perspiration, menstrual discharge.
Of Interest :The Chinese regard cypress nuts as good for the
liver and respiratory system. Cypress is employed as a fragrance in
aftershaves and perfumes. The tree is a tall evergreen with a
striking conical shape. The oil is sometimes compared to witch-hazel
and horse-chestnut in its effects.
Aromatherapy Properties : asthma, bronchitis, colds, flu,
nervous tension, oily skin, excessive perspiration, insect repellant,
varicose veins, wounds, swollen ankles. Very powerful astringent -
helps to stem blood flow.
Blends Well With : cedarwood, pine, lavender, clary sage,
lemon, juniper, benzoin, orange, marjoram, sandalwood
Chemical Analysis : pinene, camphene, sylvestrene, cymene,
sabinol
Safety Data : Non-toxic but avoid if high blood pressure /
pregnant
Name : Eucalyptus
Method : Steam distillation
Note Classification : Top
Scent : Strong, fresh, camphoraceous, minty
Colour : Colourless or pale yellow
Species : Many species ( 200 to 700 ??? )...
Eucalyptus globulus var. globulus ( blue gum eucalyptus )
Eucalyptus dives var. Type ( broad-leaved peppermint eucalyptus )
Eucalyptus citriodora ( lemon-scented eucalyptus )
Eucalyptus radiata var. australiana ( narrow-leaved eucalyptus )
Family Myrtaceae
Extracted From : Fresh or partially dried leaves and twigs
Region : Australia, Tasmania, Spain, Portugal, Brazil,
California, Russia, China, South Africa
By-products : Eucalyptus timber is produced in Spain
Historical : The eucalyptus tree was known as the Fever
Tree as the strong odours were supposed to improve the well-being
of people living in swampy areas. The first person to identify
eucalyptus oil as having medicinal properties was Baron Ferdinand von
Mueller of the Botanical Gardens in Melbourne, Australia. In Sicily,
eucalyptus trees were planted to combat malaria. The British
Pharmacopeia approved the use of the oil in 1885.
Of Interest :Eucalyptus trees carry so much essential oil that
they can often be seen shrouded in a blue haze. It was smoked by the
aborigines to treat asthma and bronchitis. Also, it was burnt to
fumigate against fever.
Eucalyptus oil has widespread use in cough medicines, toothpastes,
inhalants and ointments.
Aromatherapy Properties : Powerful antiseptic and healing
agent. Renowned for treatment of respiratory complaints - often used
in inhalants. Can relieve fever and skin irritations. Head-clearing,
uplifting, refreshing. Good insect repellent - esp. cockroaches and
silverfish.
Blends Well With : thyme, rosemary, lavender, marjoram, pine,
cedarwood, lemon, benzoin
Chemical Analysis :
Blue gum eucalyptus : cineol 70-85%, pinene, limonene, cymene,
phellandrene, terpinene, aromadendrene
Peppermint eucalyptus : piperitone 40-50%, phallandrene 20-30%,
camphene, cymene, terpinene, thujene
Lemon-scented eucalyptus : citronellal 80-95%, citronellol, geraniol,
pinene
Safety Data : Non-toxic externally. Internally very toxic -
3.5ml is usually fatal. Not compatible with homeopathic treatments.
Name : Frankincense ( Olibanum )
Method : Steam distillation from oleo gum resin. In its
natural state, the gum resembles whitish tears which leak from the
bark.
Note Classification : Base
Scent : Warm, rich, leather with zesty top note
Colour : Pale yellow or pale green
Species : Boswellia carteri, Boswellia thurifera. Family
Burseracea
Extracted From : Tree gum ( 3-10% oil to 60-70% resin )
Region : Native to Read Sea region. Somalia, Ethiopia, China,
Arabia
By-products : An absolute is also produced, mainly as a
fixative
Historical : One of the most treasured substances in the
ancient world. Used for a long time as incense in India and China. In
Egypt it was used in cosmetics and perfumes.
Of Interest :Used in men's fragrances. Pharmaceutical use in
liniments and throat pastilles. Used in minute amounts in some food
production ( eg. soft drinks ). The word frankincense comes
from a 10th century French word meaning 'luxuriant incense'.
Aromatherapy Properties : Skin diseases, respiratory system.
Calming effect on nervous system and helps to slow breathing. Well
known for its apparent anti-ageing, anti-wrinkle effect on the skin.
Add a few drops to the bath for relaxation.
Blends Well With : black pepper, sandalwood, pine, vetiver,
geranium, lavender, neroli, orange, bergamot, camphor, basil,
cinnamon, citrus
Chemical Analysis : monoterpene hydrocarbons ( pinene,
dipentene, limonene, thujone, phellandrene, cymene, myrcene,
terpinene ), octyl acetate, octanol, incensole
Safety Data : Non-toxic
Name : Jasmine
Method : Concrete by solvent extraction, Absolute using
alcohol, Essential Oil by steam distillation. Traditionally by
enfleurage.
Note Classification : Base
Scent : Rich, warm, floral, heavy, sensual
Colour : Dark orange-brown if absolute
Species : Jasminum officinale
Extracted From : Flowers ( delicate, white, star-shaped )
Region : China, Northern India, Asia, Morocco, Egypt
By-products : Used in a wide range of soaps, cosmetics and
perfumes. The dried flowers of J. sambac are used to make jasmine
tea.
Historical : Jasmine flowers were used extensively in
religious ceremonies. Cleopatra used jasmine oil on Mark Antony.
Of Interest : Pure jasmine oil is very expensive as many
petals have to be collected. The best time to collect is at night
when the scent is strongest.
Aromatherapy Properties : Antidepressant, analgesic and
reputed aphrodisiac. Often used to treat problems with the nervous
system such as anxiety and stress. Jasmine oil is also regarded as a
good skin tonic - it softens and smoothes tired skin. Used as a tonic
for the female body and particularly the reproductive system. 'Warms
the womb'. Possible use for some respiratory illnesses.
Blends Well With : Citrus oils
Chemical Analysis : benzyl acetate, linalol, phenylacetic
acid, benzyl alcohol, farnesol, methyl anthranilate, cisjasmone,
methyl jasmonate
Safety Data : Non-toxic but possible allergic reaction in some
sensitive individuals
Name : Juniper
Method : Steam distillation.
Note Classification : Middle
Scent : Sweet, fresh, balsamic
Colour : Clear or pale yellow
Species : Juniperus communis
Extracted From : Berries ( possibly fermented ) or
non-essential oil from needles and wood. Juniper is an evergreen
shrub or tree up to 6m high.
Region : Scandinavia, Siberia, Canada, northern Europe
By-products : The principal flavouring ingredient of gin. Used
in laxatives, flea treatments, soaps, cosmetics and perfumes. Used
extensively in food products.
Historical : Tradtionally used to treat urinary infections,
gastro-intestinal problems and worms. In the Middle Ages, a juniper
bush was thought to repel witches if planted by the door. The noted
herbalist and physician Abbess Hildegarde von Bingen suggested that
respiratory infections could be treated with hot baths of crushed
juniper berries. In the 17th century, the English herbalist Nicolas
Culpeper described juniper as 'provoking urine exceedingly'. In World
War 2, French nurses burnt juniper to disinfect the air.
Of Interest : Listed in the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia for
the treatment of rheumatic pain and cystitis.
Aromatherapy Properties : Skin tonic ( acne, dermatitis ),
good for circulation and muscles / joints ( gout treatment ), urinary
infections ( diuretic ) and nervous tension. Possible hair loss
treatment.
Blends Well With : benzoin, vetiver, clary sage, wood and
citrus oils
Chemical Analysis : monoterpenes :- pinene, myrcene, sabinene,
limonene, cymene, terpinene, thujene, camphene
Safety Data : Non-toxic but not to be used if pregnant. Not to
be used with any form of kidney disease due to its
nephrotoxic effect. May be slightly irritating so
use with caution.
Name : Ginger
Method : Steam distillation.
Note Classification : Base
Scent : Spicy, warm, woody, exotic
Colour : Pale yellow, amber or greenish
Species : Zingiber officinale
Extracted From : Unpeeled, dried root
Region : Suthern Asia, China, India, Japan, Nigeria, West
Indies
By-products : Fragrance in men's cosmetics. Major food use in
all areas.
Historical :.Eastern medicine has used ginger for a very long
time. It was thought it promoted strength and a long life. The women
of Senegal weave ginger root into belts to arouse their husbands !
Fresh ginger is still used in China to treat toothache, diarrhea,
excess mucus, rheumatism and dysentery. In the West it is well known
as a digestive aid - the British Herbal Pharmacopoeia lists it for
flatulent intestinal colic. It is also a well known cure for travel
sickness.
Of Interest : Has many processed states including preserved,
crystallised, paste and ground.
Aromatherapy Properties : muscular problems, arthritis,
rheumatism, poor circulation, coughs, sore throat, nausea, travel
sickness, colds, flu. Also noted for its decongesting properties.
Blends Well With : sandalwood, vetiver, frankincense,
patchouli, cedarwood, lime, orange
Chemical Analysis : gingerin, gingenol, gingerone,
zingiberine, linalol, camphene, phellandrene, citral, cineol,
borneol
Safety Data : Non-toxic but slightly phototoxic. May be
slightly irritating so use with caution.
Name : Lavender
Method : Steam distillation
Note Classification : Middle
Scent : Sweet, floral, herbaceous
Colour : Pale yellow or colourless
Species : Lavandula angustifolia, Lavandula officinalis.
Family Lamiaceae ( Labiatae )
Extracted From : Flowering tops
Region : France, Mediterranean, all over
By-products : Scented water, pot pourri
Historical : Lavender has a long tradition as a folk remedy.
It was used for stomach complaints, insect repellants and as a scent
for linen. The Romans used lavender in preparation for childbirth.
Floors strewn with lavender were thought to ward off the plague.
Of Interest : Lavender is a violet-blue evergreen shrub,
widely available and extremely aromatic. The Latin word for wash is
lavare and hence lavender.
Aromatherapy Properties : The most universal of all essential
oils. Many uses including skin care, circulation, muscles, joints,
digestive, immune system. Sheets washed in lavender are thought to
promote sleep.
Blends Well With : Most oils
Chemical Analysis : linalyl acetate 40% + linalol, lavandulol,
lavandulyl acetate, terpineol, cineol, limonene, ocimene,
caryophyllene. Probably more than 100 constituents
Safety Data : Non-toxic. Can be used undiluted on small areas
of skin
Name : Lemon
Method : Expression
Note Classification : Top
Scent : Light, fresh, citrus, sherbet-ty, tangy
Colour : Pale greeny-yellow ( browner with age )
Species : Citrus limon(um). Family Rutaceae
Extracted From : Outer part of fresh peel
Region : Asia, East India, Mediterranean region esp. Spain,
Portugal, Italy, Sicily, Cyprus, Israel. Also California, Florida
By-products : Cedro oil ( terpeneless oil )
Historical : Traditionally used to treat fevers such as
malaria, typhoid and also scurvy on English ships. Lemon juice is
rich in vitamins A, B and C and is a good tonic for colds and flu.
Lemon was introduced to Europe by the Arabians in 1000 AD. Early
Christians sometimes portrayed the lemon as the fruit of the Tree of
Knowledge from which Eve ate before being expelled from Eden. The
Romans believed in dosing pregnant women with lemon cordials to
alleviate nausea. The first tree was grown in California in 1887.
Of Interest :Used extensively as a flavouring agent in foods
and beverages, and a fragrance component of cosmetics, soaps and
perfumes.
Aromatherapy Properties : Poor circulation, varicose veins,
diabetes, kidneys, arthritis, rheumatism, asthma, catarrh, cold, flu,
greasy skin, insect bites, stimulate appetite. Believed to enhance
the body's nature ability to fight infection.
Blends Well With : neroli, ylang ylang, rose, sandalwood,
chamomile, benzoin, fennel, geranium, eucalyptus, juniper,
lavender
Chemical Analysis : limonene 70%, terpinene, pinenes,
sabinene, myrcene, citral, linalol, geraniol, octanol, nonanol,
citronellal, bergamotene
Safety Data : Non-toxic but may cause skin irritation in some.
Use in moderation. Phototoxic in direct sunlight
Name : Myrrh
Method : Essential oil distilled from gum resin.
Note Classification : Base
Scent : Camphorous, resinous, slightly spicy, deep,
mysterious
Colour : Deep golden
Species : Commiphora myrrha
Extracted From : Tree resin of a small, Middle Eastern tree.
Resinoid is dark brown and has to be thinned with diethyl phthalate
for pouring.
Region : North-east Africa, south-west Asia. Somalia, Yemen
and Ethiopia.
By-products : Used in many toothpastes and mouth washes due to
its antiseptic properties and strong scent. Flavour ingredient in
some alcoholic and soft drinks.
Historical : Used in ancient Egypt for rejuvenating face
masks. In the Bible, myrrh is one of the gifts brought by the three
wise men - the others being gold and frankincense. Frequently burned
as incense.
Of Interest : Name is derived from the Arabic word 'murr'
meaning 'bitter'.
Aromatherapy Properties : Antiseptic, anti-inflammatory and
antifungal. Used to treat wounds and for digestive problems.
Blends Well With : Camphor, lavender and wood oils
Chemical Analysis : heerabolene, limonene, dipentene, pinene,
eugenol, cinnamaldehyde, cuminaldehyde, cadinene
Safety Data : Avoid if pregnant.
Name : Neroli ( Orange Blossom )
Method : Steam distillation
Note Classification : Base
Scent : Sweet, floral with citrus top note. Slightly soapy
Colour : Pale yellow
Species : Citrus aurantium var. amara. Family Rutaceae. The
oil is distilled from bitter orange rather than Citrus sirensis (
sweet orange ) which is not as potent
Extracted From : Freshly picked flowers
Region : Native to Far East. Italy, Tunisia, Morocco, Egypt,
USA, France ( major production )
By-products : A concrete and absolute are also produced by
solvent extraction. Orange flower water is produced during steam
distillation
Historical : Orange flowers have been used in bridal bouquets
for some time. Has been used in Europe as a blood cleanser.
Of Interest :Named after ( supposedly ) a 16th century
princess in Nerola, Italy who wore it as a perfume, in her bath water
and on her gloves. Now used in eau de cologne.
Aromatherapy Properties : Good for skin tone. Excellent for
soothing nervous tension. Aphrodisiac qualities - deeply relaxing and
enticing.
Blends Well With : Most oils eg. chamomile, benzoin, clary
sage, geranium, lavender
Chemical Analysis : linalol 34%, linalyl acetate 6-17%,
limonene 15%, pinene, nerolidol, geraniol, nerol, methyl
anthranilate, indole, citral, jasmone
Safety Data : Non-toxic
Name : Patchouli
Method : Steam distillation
Note Classification : Base
Scent : Powerful, warm, spicy, earthy odour. A tenacious
scent
Colour : Amber, dark orange
Species : Pogostemon cablin. Family Lamiaceae ( Labiatae )
Extracted From : Dried leaves and branches ( after some
fermentation )
Region : Asia, Indonesia, Philippines, India, China, Malaysia,
South America
By-products : Resinoid also produced, as a fixative
Historical : The oil has been used in the East for a long time
to scent clothes and linen. It was believed to prevent the spread of
disease. Also used in China, Japan and Malaysia to treat colds,
headaches, nausea, diarrhea and abdominal pain.
Of Interest :Popular in Victorian England due to imported
cashmere shawls from India reeking of patchouli. Used to scent Indian
ink. Used a lot in the food industry. Masking agent for unpleasant
smells.
Aromatherapy Properties : Good antiseptic, eg. minor burns and
cracked skin. Calming action. Aphrodisiac.
Blends Well With : vetiver, sandalwood, cedarwood, geranium,
rose, neroli, lavender, bergamot, myrrh, clary sage
Chemical Analysis : patchouli alcohol 40%, pogostol, bulnesol,
nor patchoulenol, bulnese, patchoulene
Safety Data : Non-toxic
Name : Rose
Method : Rose otto by steam distillation. Rose absolute by
solvent extraction
Note Classification : Middle / Base
Scent : Sweet-floral, spicy-floral
Colour : Pale yellow, olive yellow, reddish orange
Species : Many different subspecies, but the main ones
are...
Rosa damascena ( damask rose ), Rosa centifolia ( musk rose ), Rosa
indica ( oriental / tea rose ), Rosa rugosa ( Chinese / Japanese rose
), Rosa rubiginosa ( for rosehip seed oil ), Rosa gallica (
apothecary rose )
Rose bulgar ( Bulgaria ), Rose maroc ( Morocco )
Extracted From : Petals ( Flowers )
Region : Bulgaria, Turkey, France, Morocco, China, India,
Russia
By-products : Rose Water is produced as a result of steam
distillation. India produces aytar - a mixture of rose otto
and sandalwood
Historical : Rose petals have been used over the ages to scent
water and to provide room fragrance. There is a legend that the Mogul
prince Jehangir ensured that every canal in the royal gardens were
filled with rose petals to celebrate his wedding. His wife noticed
the thin film of rose oil floating on the water and had it
bottled.
Of Interest : It takes 30 damask roses to make one drop of
rose otto essential oil ! Rose otto is one of the most expensive
substances in the world.
Aromatherapy Properties : A truly feminine oil renowned for
its sensual fragrance and calming / balancing nature. It is
traditionally used as an anti-depressant and for nervousness, sadness
and stress. The oil is known as an excellent remedy for disorders of
the female system.
Blends Well With : bergamot, clary sage, geranium, jasmine,
patchouli, sandalwood
Chemical Analysis : phenyl ethanol 63%, citronellol 18-22%,
geraniol / nerol 10-15%, stearopten 8%, farnesol 0.2-2%
Safety Data : Non-toxic
Name : Rosewood
Method : Steam distillation
Note Classification : Middle
Scent : Sweet, soapy, woody-floral
Colour : Colourless or pale yellow
Species : Aniba rosaeodora. Family Lauraceae
French Guiana used to produce cayenne rosewood ( Ocotea caudata ) -
superior quality
Extracted From : Wood chippings
Region : Brazil, Peru
By-products : Rosewood is still used for carving and French
cabinet-making. Also to Japan for production of chopsticks.
Historical : Has been used in the past for skin care. Known
as a very mild oil.
Of Interest :Rosewood is a small evergreen tree, now
endangered. It has a reddish bark and heartwood. Used extensively in
soap fragrances and food / soft drinks.
Aromatherapy Properties : Depression, stress, acne,
dermatitis, wrinkles, general skin care
Blends Well With : citrus, patchouli and most oils
Chemical Analysis : linalol 90-97%, cineol, terpineol,
geraniol, citronellal, limonene, pinene
Safety Data : Non-toxic
Name : Sandalwood
Method : Steam distillation
Note Classification : Base
Scent : Soft, sweet, woody
Colour : Pale yellow, greenish or brownish
Species : Santalum album. Family Santalaceae
Extracted From : Wood. The oil is concentrated in the
heartwood at the centre of mature / dying trees which take
around 30 years to grow.
Region : Mysore in East India. Indonesia. Some oil is
distilled in Europe and USA.
By-products : In India, it is often combined with rose to
make the scent aytar.
Historical : . One of the oldest known perfume materials going
back at least 4000 years. Sandalwood has long been used in embalming
and funeral rites eg. for Singhalese princes. In Hindu marriages, it
is burned on a sacred fire within the marriage tent so that the fumes
surround the bridal pair. It has often been used as incense in
religious ceremonies. Rosewood and sandalwood oil are traditionally
sprinkled by women on passersby in Burma to cleanse away sins on the
last day of the year. Sandalwood plays an important part in
Ayurveda, the Indian system of healing. Here it is used to
treat urinary and respiratory infections.
Of Interest :The tree is parasitic in growth - the roots
attach themselves to the surrounding undergrowth. It is evergreen and
grows to about 9m high. The felled trees are left on the ground
during which time white ants attack the sapwood, leaving the
heartwood behind. The wood is also used in carving and for
construction esp. temples. Sandalwood is well known for its fixative
properties.
Aromatherapy Properties : diarrhea, nausea, depression,
nervous tension, catarrh, sore throat, dry skin, chapped skin ( good
for aftershaves ).
Blends Well With : benzoin, black pepper, cypress,
frankincense, neroli, ylang ylang, rose, jasmine, myrrh
Chemical Analysis : santalols 90%, sesquiterpene hydrocarbons
6%, santene, teresantol, borneol, santalone, tricycloekasantalal
Safety Data : Non-toxic
Name : Tea Tree ( Ti Tree is a mis-spelling and refers to
another tree species in New Zealand )
Method : Steam distillation
Note Classification : Top
Scent : Menthol, slight citrus, spicy, fresh, clean
Colour : Pale yellow-green or colourless
Species : Melaleuca alternifolia. Family Myrtaceae
Extracted From : Leaves and twigs
Region : Richmond River basin, New South Wales, Australia
By-products : -
Historical : Used extensively by aborigines before Captain
Cook used the name tea tree to refer to the leaves of a
Leptospermum ( similar genus to Melaleuca ) from which he brewed a
tea drink. It was referred to as spicy and refreshing. There are over
three hundred varieties of tea tree throughout Australia, but only
one has truly outstanding medicinal properties - Melaleuca
Alternifolia. The key properties of this variety are a high
terpinene-4-ol component and a low cineol component ( which is a skin
irritant ). Much research has been done into the properties of tea
tree, perhaps more than any other essential oil. It is now widely
recognised by the scientific community as a powerful tool against a
variety of infectious organisms. Mr. W. R. Penfold in 1930 found it
to be 11 to 13 times stronger than carbolic ( carbolic acid or
phenol, C6-H5-OH ) as a germicide.
Of Interest : Tea Tree oil has made a bit of a comeback
recently - it can be found in a wide range of cosmetics and
shampoos.
Aromatherapy Properties : Strong antiseptic,
anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial, anti-viral, fungicidal properties.
Used for a variety of skin complaints eg. athlete's foot, boils,
herpes, ulcers, psoriasis, warts.
Blends Well With : clary sage, lemon, lavender, rosemary
Chemical Analysis : terpinene-4-ol 30% + cineol, pinene,
terpinenes, cymene, sesquiterpenes, sesquiterpene alcohols
Safety Data : Non-toxic but occasionally sensitizing. Can be
used undiluted on small areas of skin if care is taken
Name : Ylang Ylang
Method : Steam distillation
Note Classification : Base
Scent : Exotic, sweet, soft, floral, intense heady perfume
Colour : Pale-yellow
Species : Cananga odorata. Family Annonaceae
Extracted From : Flowers
Region : Indonesia, Philippines, Madagascar, Reunion and
Comoro Islands
By-products : Perfume
Historical : Used for hair care and skin complaints. Also to
fight fever and infections. In Victorian times, the oil was used in
Macassar oil - a hair treatment. In Indonesia, the flowers are spread
on the beds of newly married couples.
Of Interest : The tropical Ylang Ylang tree has beautiful
yellow flowers and the perfume is so strong that it is known as the
flower of flowers.
Aromatherapy Properties : Aphrodisiac properties due to
intense flowery scent. Anti-depressant. Euphoric qualities. Has a
balancing effect on blood pressure and distressed breathing
patterns.
Blends Well With : rosewood, jasmine, vetivert, bergamot,
rose
Chemical Analysis : methyl benzoate, methyl salicylate, methyl
paracretol, benzyl acetate, eugenol, geraniol, linalol, terpenes,
pinene, cadinene
Safety Data : Non-toxic
Name : Vetivert, Vetiver
Method : Steam distillation
Note Classification : Base
Scent : Deep smoky, woody, tobacco, slight sweetness
Colour : Dark brown or olive. Very viscous oil.
Species : Vetiveria zizanioides. Family Poaceae ( Gramineae
)
Extracted From : roots ( washed, chopped, dried & soaked
)
Region : South India, Indonesia, Sri Lanka, Comoros Islands,
Philippines, Japan, West Africa, South America. Mainly produced in
Java, Haiti and Reunion. Some distilled in Europe and USA.
By-products : A resinoid is also produced by solvent
extraction for perfumery work
Historical : Used in the East for a long time - vetivert was
renowned for its fragrance and vermin repelling characteristics.
Of Interest :Vetivert is a perennial scented grass. It has
long narrow leaves and an abundance of white rootlets. Often planted
to protect against soil erosion in the rainy season. In India and Sri
Lanka, it is known as the oil of tranquility. Vetivert is
employed as a fixative ( eg. preservative for asparagus ) and a
fragrance in oriental perfumes.
Aromatherapy Properties : cuts, oily skin, arthritis,
rheumatism, muscular aches and pains, depression, insomnia. It is a
deeply relaxing oil.
Blends Well With : sandalwood, rose, violet, jasmine,
patchouli, lavender, clary sage, ylang ylang
Chemical Analysis : vetiverol, vetivone, terpenes eg.
vetivenes
Safety Data : Non-toxic
Name : X
Method : X
Note Classification : X
Scent : X
Colour : X
Species : X
Extracted From : X
Region : X
By-products : X
Historical : X
Of Interest : X
Aromatherapy Properties : X
Blends Well With : X
Chemical Analysis : X
Safety Data : X